A Long-Awaited Update - September 24, 2007

We spent a little more than a month in the Marquesas Islands. On the North side of Nuku Hiva we stayed in the spectacular place called Anaho Bay. In the next bay over, Hatiheu, we met really warm people and we got to visit some of the old archaeological sites of the island. We returned to Taiohae after Nico and Steve left from Hatiheu and re-provisioned. After a few days there, we left for the island of Ua Pou. It was only a day sail to the South with beautiful weather.

On Ua Pou we anchored in two different bays, Hakahetau and Hakamaii. The people in the second town were very nice. We were pressed for time because we have to be in Tahiti before hurricane season comes in mid-November, so we left for Tahuata, again heading farther South. On account of winds, we continued beating to the most Southern Marquesas Island, Fatu Hiva. There we stayed in the beautiful Hanavave Bay. It was originally called the Bay of Penises because of phallic rock spires that adorn the hillsides but the name was changed to bay of virgins by adding an e to the French name. We hiked to a waterfall there, which was about 120 feet tall and swam in its deep pool. We saw a whole bunch of waterfalls on Nuku Hiva but we didn't hike to any; this was our first. We then sailed over to the town of Omoa where we were able to buy some tapas, which are pounded tree bark that has been painted with traditional designs using natural ink. There we met a woman who my dad had taken a picture of on his last trip. He and his brother had been hiking over the hill from Hanavave to Omoa and crossed paths with a group of four women about their own age. The woman we met was the only one of the four still living on the island and she could hardly believe it. In Omoa we also met a dentist who lives on Hiva Oa and a schoolteacher from Papeete.

We left for Hiva Oa after a few days. We visited the main town of Atuona mainly for supplies. The dentist we had met, Alex, and his wife Linnea were welcoming and took us around the island. Linnea is part Finnish so it was great for her to meet my grandfather who is Estonian.

Our next stop was in Tahuata, which is a small island only about five miles from Hiva Oa. We had heard that it is exceptionally beautiful and furthermore we had the names of two bone carvers who live there. We anchored in three different bays and restocked on fruit before we set sail again. The last of the three bays was Hapatoni where we met the bone carver Cyril. He had stunning pieces, the best we had seen, and the neighboring bay was home to dolphins so we stayed for a few days. We saw the dolphins but never got a chance to swim with them. The one time we went over the water was filled with jellyfish so we got in and right back out quickly. We then left for the Tuamotu Archipelago.

The Tuamotu islands are South of the Marquesas and East of Tahiti. French Polynesia is essentially split up into five groups of islands: the Marquesas, the Tuamotus, the Society Islands, Gambier, and the Australs. We only plan on visiting the first three groups however. The Marquesas are steep and volcanic, much like Hawaii, while the Tuamotus are low atolls, only small, palm covered, sandy islands. Each atoll consists of many motus, or small islands, surrounding an inner lagoon, protected from the ocean by a reef. The Society Islands, which include Tahiti, are a mixture of the two, they are tall and mountainous, but have an inner lagoon that is protected by a large reef.

Our first stop was the island of Raroia. We arrived on September 17th and stayed for a few days. The snorkeling was beautiful but the multitude of sharks was a little off putting. The town there was small but we did get ice cream one day at the little store, but when we went back it was all gone, along with the wine on the shelf that we were going to buy. We left on the 21st for Makemo. It was an overnight sail, but the wind was completely dead so we motored the whole way; we had to be in Makemo by the 23rd because my grandmother was arriving. Coming in was the first time I was on the helm for a pass and it was not so easy. We always have someone stationed up at the first set of spreaders for a better vantage point. The town here is a bit bigger than Raroia and there is a dive shop so hopefully I can get scuba certified. My grandmother arrived along with Titou, a family friend who was on Rapture for part of the trip 30 years ago. My grandmother brought a lot of stuff from home, books, sheets, rope, a ham radio, just to name a few.

We have all read a ton of books, so if you're looking for a good book just ask. It is truly amazing how time gets eaten away on a boat, especially when you are cooking, cleaning, reading, going to buy groceries, and constantly fixing things on the boat. Small tasks become much larger ones. It's surprising that you never really get bored. I hope everyone back home is doing well, to those who have already started school, I wish you the best.

Giovanni